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Thursday, November 18, 2010

Bihari Identity - What does being Bihari mean

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Sunday, March 01, 2009

Young Turks from Bihar : Samant Chauhan's journey

Another young Bihari turk is making his marks in the fashion world. Bihari talent is traditionally renowned for its large pool of engineers, doctors and administrative officers. In recent times we are seeing a new surge of varied talent which is earning a niche in fields of art, literature and other alternate careers.

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Designer Samant Chauhan has arrived on the fashion circuit with his exquisite work of “non-violent” silk, which is not made from killing worms, traditionally woven in Bhagalpur. The young designer is not only showing at the big ticket event once more but is also using the trip to do something else closer to his heart: talk on ethical fashion at the London College of Fashion.


He spoke to BS recently about his journey from Bihar to London. Chauhan is excited and just a bit apprehensive about the presentation he will be making at the fashion institute. On the other hand, his presentations and designs do have a knack for turning out exceptional. “That’s perhaps of my communication, as you may have noticed...” says Chauhan.


Lest you think he is talking about one of his strong points — no, he isn’t. This young designer from Bhagalpur, “like all Biharis”, he acknowledges and generalises, is hardly the best speaker of the Queen’s Language. In the glamorous world that’s his calling, where everything looks so polished at least on the surface, it is therefore somewhat startling to come upon the unpretentious person and country accents of fashion designer Chauhan. Not that his exuberance is checked by any one’s perceptions. Chauhan is candid: “It is because,” he says, of his language skill “not being so good that I work extra hard … so that my work can speak for itself and I don’t need to explain it,” he tells me with a smile.


He talks about how he was always marginalized and under rated by his peers and the unsaid discrimination faced during his college days. Like many other Biharis who face this discrimination and sometimes deep humiliation when they venture out to make a mark, Sumant story is no different. However he turned these challenges into inspiring opportunity and here he is finally now on the scene.


Not being particularly inclined towards academics, he decided to give NIFT a shot, he says. His parents, he clarifies, were always supportive. Being themselves firmly middle-class, they never stopped any of their children from attempting the unusual and making unconventional professional choices. And Chauhan did exactly did. But the transition from Bhagalpur (where he wore Newport jeans, graduating only later to Levi’s, the only brands he knew of at that point in his life) to New Delhi was not as traumatic as the realisation that the “image of Biharis was very poor” with his fellow students. “When they looked at me, they assumed that I didn’t know anything, forget anything about fashion,” remembers Chauhan but without any bitterness.


Ironically, he soon realised that awareness levels in the Capital and amongst his classmates from the metros were fairly low. “I soon found out that, in fact, students from Bihar know much more… about politics or Ben Hur, many of my classmates wouldn’t know even about such things… and I used to wonder why they were assuming that I knew nothing of Jean Paul Gaultier,” he smiles.


Being feted by a glamorous world now hasn’t made Chauhan lose any of his sense of rootedness though. Having always been passionate about working on natural silk fabric that came from his native area, the designer soon discovered how to market this to his advantage as well. “People ask me if I could make the same sherwani or another design in some other fabric, but I say sorry. If I start working in other stuff, what will be my USP?” he questions.


Traditional silk weaving in Bhagalpur is a threatened enterprise — there are few families left engaging in the traditional craft; most have switched over to power looms and have been seduced by the easy availability of cheaper Chinese yarn. “What they don’t understand is that they will never be able to compete with the mills of Surat,” says Chauhan, who is working with NGOs at the grassroot level to revive the traditional weave. Thanks in part to his efforts, the fabric, preferred for furnishings, has now found a larger audience in the apparel mart too. Besides, says Chauhan, he is not worried about anyone copying his work — “if they work with the Bhagalpur fabric, it will all benefit local weavers.”


In Europe and America, at the high-end stores from where he retails, it is a good time to be an eco-friendly designer. But because of the meltdown, it is also an equally good time to be an “upcoming” fashion designer. And that’s true for the domestic market too. “In fact,” says Chauhan, “I’ve done better this year than ever, both in the domestic market and abroad.” He reasons that with people less ready to pay a premium on big names, a younger designer offering quality has a better chance of getting picked up. It’s a good theory alright.

Keep watching out for more Bihari young turks who are going to change the way the world looks at Bihar and Biharis.


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Sunday, October 21, 2007

Bihar Goes Glam way..

India today's previous edition has a story on the talent pool of Bihar in the field of Glamour and Entertainment.The article is titled "Bihar goes glam".

Patna Express

As youngsters from Bihar make their mark in the hitherto untouched world of glitz, the state Government is trying to match their global aspirations with better infrastructure.

In the recent past we have seen how Bihari talent is making its mark in the field of fashion,media and entertainment.Unlike the past we are now seeing more and more youngsters from Bihar are open to alternate career and willing to break the typical mindset of naukri and stability of Job.They are confident,passionate and have the talent to make it big at the global level.


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Sunday, April 01, 2007

Bihari flavour dazzels fashion world

Gone are the days when Biharis used to compete only in the field of engineering, medical, banking and management .The new Bihari kids on the block are also making their presence felt in the field of fashion which is mostly assumed to be a metro phenomenon. Sunday express report on how Small-town India has sashayed on to the runway, thanks to a handful of designers bringing a fresh, unrehearsed ethnicity to fashion.

Take Shubhra Chaudhary, for instance. In the mad rush of the just-concluded Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, this designer from Muzaffarpur, Bihar, stood out—no make-up, deglamorised attire. So did her creations. The sequins-crystal regime was dumped; instead she used hand stitches on clothes and hand-printed some others. Some of the surface treatments were derived from time spent with her grandparents in villages in Bihar. There were the obvious connections too. “When I go to Dilli Haat, I see people going gaga over simple Madhubani paintings. Back home that’s so commonplace,” she laughs, adding: “I want to bring Madhubani painting into mainstream fashion.”

Samant Chauhan has made a similar crossover. Chauhan’s father worked in the eastern railway services as a cleaner and expected his son to move on to bigger things once his high school education was over. Instead, the shy 26-year-old from Bhagalpur wanted to get into fashion designing. Today, he stands vindicated.

His collection Kamasutra, showcased at WIFW, was one of the best seen on the runway at this year’s event. Chauhan worked with Bhagalpuri raw silk to create Western streetwear. “When growing up, I’d only find people using the material for home furnishing. I thought it would be interesting to do it on clothes,” he says. Lots of texturing, interlacing and knits produced a layered look on a palette that was mostly pastel. Images from Vatsayayan’s classic and Khajuraho were printed on the clothes. “He is going to be another (Rajesh) Pratap, See how he uses Bhagalpuri silk with digital prints. That’s quite ingenious,” noted buyer Sunil Sethi.



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